![]() ![]() The soft start and speed adjustment are both nice, too. I do like the LED lights (at first I thought that was a bit gimmicky, but they really do help), and I also prefer the screw bit height adjustment over old school (PC) twisting of the motor to adjust height. ![]() It has plenty of power for my needs, and I agree with your assessment of the router. It does have a lot of features built into it, and I think it's the best bang for the buck out there. I have the combo version (#27683) of your router, and am quite happy with it. I guess that's probably a proprietary thing, but it means I have to make a baseplate to match for my PC to keep distance to edge the same for my cutting guide, and I always seem to have trouble getting those precisely centered when locating the screw holes (anybody got a trick for getting that nailed?)Īnyway, for the money I was hard pressed to find a better router. It has a 6" diameter baseplate, just a 1/4" bigger than my PC. The vacuum attachment feature is almost useless, but that would seem to be true with any router I've tried that has it because the chips can just blow right out of the groove/dado being cut anyway and 2. Solid build, 3 LED work lights, soft start, uses both 1/4" and 1/2" collets, power switch accessible while holding the router on the workpiece, and the fine adjustment works pretty well IMO. It seems pretty nice for the money ($95 w/ tax). Just wondering if anyone here has tried this router out. The combo pack would've been only 20 bucks more, but the extra 2 amps and 1/4 HP decided it for me, and I already have a combo router set anyway. So I went looking for an economical 1 1/2-2 HP router and decided on the Craftsman 12 amp fixed base router. Basically to save time on either having to reposition my cutting guide twice or resetting bit heights every time. If you’ve lost yours, you can also use an open-end or adjustable wrench. Adjustable wrenches can get the job done as well, but a bit harder to work with if you are trying to change a blade without removing the plunge base from the motor housing first.Started a project involving sliding dovetails and realized it would be nice to have two routers for it, one for the straight bit cuts to hog out the slots, and one for the dovetail bit cuts to finish. Locate the wrench that comes with the router. Your plunge router should have come with an open-end wrench. They’re usually packaged separately and not connected to the router as you see on other power tools. ![]() Only use bits designed for plunge routers. If you have the manual that came with your plunge router, it is a good idea to read it. Not only will it tell you how to replace the router bit, but it will give you details that are specific to your router, like where to find the spindle lock and what size router bits work with your router. The carbide blades on the router bit are sharp and it can be pretty easy to cut yourself when inserting or removing the bit into the collet. Gloves are not required but may prevent cuts. Step 1: Safety FirstĬheck to make sure the router is turned off and is unplugged, or remove the battery on the router. Do not attempt to change a router bit while the router is plugged in or has a battery inserted. The good news is that learning to change a router bit is pretty easy and you can get back to work quickly. Dull router bits can burn the wood or cause kickback, damaging the material, or worse yet, injuring you. Sometimes we are so busy producing that we forget that changing our router bits at the right time will actually help us produce more and leave you with a better product. The router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop and if you’re new to woodworking you may not know how to change a router bit. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |